Friday, May 22, 2009

Possibly the Best, and Saddest, Song I Have Ever Heard

It reminds me of everything I've ever found, lost, hoped for and cried over. I was listening through "Freewheelin'" and having not been too familiar with it rediscovered this. I think I may have listened to it once before; but by myself in the international wing of O'Hare it hit hard. It's going to stay up there with my favorites. It's number one for now.

The Girl from the North Country - Bob Dylan

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Hagia Sophia

Often erroneously called the church of St. Sophia by tour guides and websites, the Church of the Holy Wisdom was built in the late 6th century and still stands imperiously on the tip of the Golden Horn. When Sultan Mehmet conquered Constantinople in 1453, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque (that's where the minarets came from). In the early 1900s, Ataturk, as part of his plan to modernize Turkey, converted it to a museum showing the history of the Christian Byzantines and the Muslim Ottomans.

It is huge. There is no other way to describe it as you walk inside - gigantic medallions with Arabic lettering hang from colossal pillars, and early Christian mosaics glitter on in the archways. There are lots of tourists, but it's ok; there is plenty of room. One quarter of the main dome is under restoration, but most of the rest of the building is viewable.

Once an iconic part of the Christian church, it is perhaps a little ironic that it has since become the architectural model for mosques around Istanbul. The domes of the Blue Mosque serve as a good example of the Hagia Sophia's influence (see right).

It was interesting to finally see Christ depicted in the Hagia Sophia. In a city that seems to be somewhere between secular and Muslim, seeing the image of the Savior (in the Greek, called Pantokrator) was strangely refreshing and relieving.








Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Istanbul

This is as far East I've ever come. A number of things contributed to my desire to see this city: first, doctrine classes at Covenant. Learning about the traditions of the Eastern church, the councils of Nicaea, Constantinople and others, the early fathers Gregory of Nyssa, Gregory of Nazianzus and Basil as well as Athanasius and Nicholas really placed what used to be the capital of Christendom squarely in the realm of my imagination. Secondly, for a class with Dr. Stewart - Renaissance and Reformation - I wrote a paper drawing heavily on Steve Runciman's book on the Fall of Constantinople in 1453. In particular there is a section that describes the Emperor Constantine XI tearing off his imperial badge, making a pact of honor with three nobles fighting beside him (one of whom was an Italian who claimed to be related to the Emperor and traveled to the city to defend Christendom), and charging headlong into his foes, never to be seen again.

This morning, having been forced to greet the day at 5am by the muezzin's call to prayers from the mosque, I jogged around the old walls here in Sultanahmet (the part of Old Istanbul that has the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and other famous landmarks), most likely not far from where Constantine XI made his final stand. iPod in hand (or in ear?), I listened to Ralph Vaughan Williams' Variations on a Theme by Thomas Tallis to complete the mood. It was a good way to start the day.

After taking a cruise on the Bosphorus, grabbing a nap and making sure that everything was set for me to catch the bus to Athens tomorrow, I went to the Rumeli Cafe and ordered a dish composed of minced beef and garlic-seasoned yoghurt sauce that was quite tasty. For a starter I got a mixed cheese plate featuring a number of Turkish cheeses, one of which I really enjoyed - it was salty, like feta, but a bit harder and had a local spinach-like green in it. Really good. My waiter, Lutfu (u=oo as in book), was very sociable and we talked for quite a while. He lamented the fact that Turkish visas make it very hard to travel, and he doesn't have much of a chance to practice his English.

Apparently I was a likely candidate for English conversation, so he invited me to go with him and try the the nargile, or water pipe, when he finished his shift. He would be meeting two friends of his and I was welcome to come. It was an incredibly unique experience (the nargile uses no tobacco or anything; it's really just steam and whatever flavoring you put in there - Lutfu put in rose petals and mint leaves. They also serve hot water with those same ingredients, and you put in a sugar cube for a kind of tea-like drink. Also very good). I found out that Lutfu is 19 and that he and his cousin Selda moved to Istanbul from east Turkey. They are Kurdish, and Kurds make up 35% of the 71 million people in Turkey. Great people, and I really enjoyed talking to them.

Coming back to the hostel (from which I can see the Hagia Sophia), I met and talked with Adem, who is involved with film and theater both here in Istanbul and the UK. We shared ideas and dreams, and let him listen to a few songs as well as showing him Drew's "All My Friends", which he loved. It was great to connect through art with someone in a lasting way, and we hope to continue talking through the internets.

Tomorrow I will actually go into the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, and hopefully some of the Bazaars in the city. Then on to Athens.

Flickr (more coming soon): http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattiebrown/?saved=1

Sunday, September 7, 2008

1.5 new songs: Icarus and Asheville

Recorded a little bit with Jon tonight. They're up at http://www.myspace.com/moresecretsongs.

Icarus is about a lot of things - mainly about moving from a straightforward, narrative structure to something a little more poetic, more meandering and a little darker, along with the risks involved. Stepping off the beaten path of the familiar leads to new kinds of beauty, but it carries with it an inherent wildness; the deeper and darker woods are often more intriguing than the trail, but it's easier to get lost.

Asheville is about nostalgia, and wishing things could stay. I'll finish it soon.

Thursday, July 31, 2008

New Song (It's a Short One)

Already got a song called "Irony", this one's called "Subtlety".

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Ireland Report (part 1)

I arrived on Tuesday morning July 1. The rest of the team was scheduled to get there on Friday the 4th, but the complexities of travel necessitated that I get there early. It ended up being a great thing that I was there early (I'll explain why in a second). As I collected my bags and made my way out to the departures lobby, I thought about the next step. This ended up being a major theme for my time across the pond. I learned the practicality of Elizabeth Elliot's brilliant advice: do the next thing. For me, the next step was to make contact with the Boals, interns and other folks at Abbey Presbyterian. I didn't have too specific a plan; I figured that I would find a relatively cheap hostel until the rest my team arrived and that I would keep my guitar and maybe one bag at the church. I called the Boals, caught a bus to Parnell Square, and actually met Alan on the street (Alan Boal is the pastor of Abbey Pres.). We went into the church, and I met each of the interns in person - Liz, Luke, Wes, Jacqueline, Paige, Katie, Steph (whom I knew from Covenant), their team leaders, David and Kathy Fidati, and then Katherine and Christy, with whom I go way back (at least back to December and the previous summer, respectively). The Fidatis, Katherine and Christy offered me the couch in their apartment till my group came, which was a huge help since even a "cheap" hostel is going to be relatively expensive and sleep there is not necessarily a given.

I was able to meet with the interns that day as they went over what needed to be done in preparation for the Arts Festival the next week. Every time I've gone in the past I've seen Abbey's work develop and grow, and this time was no exception. Six nights of the Arts Cafe. Lots of local Dublin musicians, artists, and poets would share their work; the first three nights would be "anchored" by Suzie Young and Soul Connection, a jazz group from Belfast, while the last three nights would be anchored by my team. There were plans for a hip-hop workshop as well as recitals in the sanctuary during the day. A lot of work still had to be done.

One thing that had to be done was the organization, setup and testing of the sound system. Alan's predicament is that the Dublin City Council isn't going to substantially fund arts endeavors based out of Abbey until Abbey gets reputable, established acts and artists to come and participate in the festivals and cafes, but Abbey can't exactly bring those kinds of groups until they get funding. A catch-22, as we Americans might call it. Thankfully, Abbey had managed to get Soul Connection to come, and they were both established and incredibly talented, but as professionals, they had specific needs when it came to sound. This is why it was great to get there early. Steph White and I were able to go through all the equipment available to Abbey and piece together a kind of cyborg sound system that we miraculously got working, complete with monitors and 2 aux mixes apart from the main. Abbey Pres. actually helps facilitate 4 different congregations (including its own), and each time the congregation that meets in the basement (French-speaking African Pentecostal) has been gracious enough to let us use their sound system. So between what was downstairs and what we found upstairs we were able to get it functional.

On Wednesday I took a train out to Kilkenny, where I was planning on meeting the Bennetts, a family I've become close with each time we've gone out there. For the first time on an Ireland trip the team was not scheduled to go out to Kilkenny, so it was my intention to go and see them on my own while I had some time. I spent the afternoon and evening in Kilkenny, making my way to Kilkenny Presbyterian for their midweek meeting. There I got to see some old and new friends from past trips, and after the meeting Cliff Bennett and the boys, Jack and Oliver, came to pick me up.

Cliff Bennett works with a chain of pet stores in Ireland and his wife, Alice, is an established artist (I've seen some of her work and she is very talented). They have two boys: Jack is 12 and Oliver is 9, and they are some of the coolest kids I've ever met. I met the Bennetts in summer of '06, when Cassie Pettit, Ellie Novenson and I went to their house for lunch after church. We learned a little bit about them - they're originally from Zimbabwe (of British descent) and moved to Ireland years ago when things got complicated for white people living there. The boys showed me the ins and outs of Hurling, an amazing sport they play in Ireland. By the end of our lunch, the boys and I had hit it off pretty well, and they gave me a hurling stick (a "hurl" or "hurley") to call my own as well two hurling balls (the "sliotar"). It was awesome.

Anyways, I've seen them each time I've gone back and it's always been a highlight for me. This time I was actually able to stay with them and spend some time with the boys, which was the perfect way to start out the trip. On Thursday I took an afternoon train back into Dublin and hung out with the interns some more before crashing that night on the couch. In the morning I would go to the airport to meet a team composed largely of people I had never met in person and who had only met themselves the day prior in the Atlanta airport.

To be continued.

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Made it.

I'm typing this from the yellow internet cafe down the street from Abbey Pres. Made it safe and sound; I connected with Pastor Alan and the interns and it's great. It's funny, it doesn't really feel like another country anymore. For me it's almost just like hopping over to Atlanta or going up to PA. Just another temporary home for this world citizen. Pictures coming soon.

I had an 8-hour or so layover in Chicago, during which time I explored a little bit of the city and the park. It was a beautiful day, and I actually caught a noon-time concert sponsored by the Pitchfork Music Festival. These guys were playing; they were pretty good. Guess they're a local band. They had two drummers - one on a normal set, and one with two floor toms, a trash can, bongos and a cymbal. Got a few pictures and sound bytes.